Metal & Purity Guide

Choosing gold is choosing how you live with it.

Tone is about how it looks. Purity is about how it wears. Most people only think about one of the two. Here's both, explained plainly enough to decide with confidence.

What's Actually In It

Gold on its own is always yellow

Pure gold, 24K, is soft and consistently yellow. Every other tone you see in jewelry comes from what's alloyed into it, not from the gold itself.

Yellow Gold

Gold alloyed with silver and copper in roughly equal measure. The higher the purity, the more gold in that mix, and the warmer and deeper the yellow reads.

White Gold

Gold alloyed with whiter metals like palladium. Gold's own color never fully disappears, so what you see as bright white is a rhodium plating over that alloy, not the gold itself.

Rose Gold

The same alloy family as yellow gold, with a higher proportion of copper and less silver. More copper means more pink.

How They Combine

Every tone, in every purity

What changes visually between purities is subtle. What changes underneath is not.

Tone 9K · 37.5% 14K · 58.5% 18K · 75.0%
Yellow Pale gold Standard Deep rich
White Rhodium Rhodium Rhodium
Rose Deep blush Balanced Soft blush
Gold purity changes the price. Tone does not. Full purity breakdown, including what each percentage means for durability, is on Craftsmanship.
One Thing Worth Knowing

White gold looks the same at every purity. That's rhodium, not the gold.

Rhodium plating gives white gold its bright, silvery finish, and it looks identical whether the gold underneath is 9K, 14K, or 18K. The alloy underneath is what differs, and that difference shows up later, in durability and in how often the piece needs re-plating, not on day one.

Yellow and rose gold aren't plated. What you see is the alloy itself, so purity shows up immediately in the depth of the color.

The Other Option

Platinum isn't a color of gold. It's a different metal entirely.

Most of what people know about choosing metal is really about choosing gold. Platinum works differently enough that it deserves its own explanation, not a footnote.

Naturally White

White gold gets its color from rhodium plated over a gold alloy. Platinum is naturally white, used at very high purity with minimal alloying, which also makes it generally the more hypoallergenic option.

Noticeably Heavier

Platinum is roughly 1.6 times denser than gold. The same design in platinum sits heavier on the hand than it would in gold, purely from the metal itself.

Wears Differently

Scratched gold loses tiny amounts of metal. Scratched platinum mostly displaces rather than disappears, which is why it develops a soft patina with age instead of thinning. It can be polished back to a bright finish, or left to age.

Our standard: PT950. 95% pure platinum, alloyed with a small measure of iridium, ruthenium, or palladium for strength. Marked in parts per thousand rather than karat, which is how platinum is measured worldwide.
Choosing Between Them

What actually decides it

Less about which looks best in a photo, more about how you actually live day to day.

You wear it daily and want the least upkeep
9K. The most durable of the three purities, and the most resistant to scratching and everyday wear.
You want more color depth without extra care
14K. The balance most of our pieces are built on, durable enough for daily wear with a warmer, richer tone than 9K.
You want the deepest color and don't mind a bit more care
18K. The richest tone available, and the softest metal of the three. See Care Guide for how that changes day-to-day handling.
You want brightness, regardless of warmth
White gold. Available in any purity, since the color comes from rhodium plating, not the gold. Budget for occasional re-plating over the life of the piece.
You want white without the plating, and don't mind the extra weight
Platinum. A different metal entirely, not a shade of gold. Full detail above.